Let me tell you, if you’re working on stainless steel with TIG welding, choosing the right tungsten is not just helpful—it’s absolutely essential. I remember when I first got into welding, I used to think all tungsten was the same.
After years of hands-on experience and talking with seasoned welders, I realized there’s a world of difference in how they perform, especially on stainless steel.
Photos by weldingsuperstore
If you’re sitting here wondering which tungsten is best for TIG welding stainless steel, I’ve got your back.
If you’re just starting out or looking to fine-tune your setup, this article is going to walk you through everything in plain, easy-to-understand language.
We’ll go over what makes stainless steel unique, why tungsten type matters, which ones work best, and how to use them effectively. You’ll also find a helpful table and answers to some common questions people often ask me.
Why the Right Tungsten Matters in TIG Welding
TIG welding is all about precision and control. It’s like using a fine-tip pen instead of a big paintbrush. And when it comes to stainless steel, that control becomes even more important.
Stainless reacts differently to heat compared to mild steel or aluminum. It’s sensitive. If your setup isn’t just right, you’ll end up with warping, burn-through, or a weld that looks messy and dull.
The tungsten electrode is at the heart of your TIG torch. It’s what carries the current to the arc. The type of tungsten you use affects how stable your arc is, how much control you have, how clean the weld looks, and even how long the tungsten lasts.
So yeah, it’s kind of a big deal.
What Makes Stainless Steel Different?
Before we get into tungsten choices, let’s quickly touch on stainless steel. It’s different from regular steel because of the chromium it contains. That chromium helps it resist rust and corrosion. Sounds great, right? It is.
The tricky part is that stainless steel doesn’t disperse heat well. That means it can easily get too hot in one spot, leading to overheating or discoloration.
TIG welding is perfect for stainless because it lets you manage the heat precisely. But only if you’re using the right tools—including the right tungsten.
Types of Tungsten for TIG Welding Stainless Steel
Alright, let’s talk tungsten. Not all types are created equal. There are a few main ones to consider, and each one has its own pros and cons. I’ve personally tried them all, and here’s what I’ve learned over the years.
2% Thoriated Tungsten (Red)
This one’s been around forever. You’ll hear a lot of older welders swear by it. It’s known for its ability to hold a sharp point and provide a stable arc.
- Great for DC welding, which is what you use for stainless
- Easy arc starts and consistent arc
- Long-lasting and durable
But—and this is important—it’s radioactive. That means you have to handle it carefully. I always use a proper tungsten grinder with ventilation when sharpening it, just to be safe.
2% Ceriated Tungsten (Gray)
This is one of my personal favorites for stainless. Especially if you’re working at lower amperages.
- Excellent for low-amp starts
- Holds a sharp point well
- Ideal for thin stainless steel
If I’m working on something delicate, like a thin kitchen hood or exhaust tubing, I’ll reach for this one every time.
2% Lanthanated Tungsten (Blue or Gold)
Another great option for stainless steel. It’s become more popular over the years because it offers the benefits of both thoriated and ceriated tungstens, without the radioactivity.
- Excellent arc stability
- Versatile and durable
- Good for both low and high amperage
If you want one tungsten that can handle a wide range of stainless projects, lanthanated is a smart choice.
Pure Tungsten (Green)
You’ll find this one mentioned in older books or when people are welding aluminum with AC. But for stainless steel with DC TIG, this is not what you want. It doesn’t hold a point, and the arc isn’t stable enough for the precision you need.
Comparison of Best Tungsten Types for Stainless Steel
Here’s a quick side-by-side comparison of the most popular tungsten types used for stainless:
| Tungsten Type | Color Code | Best Use | Pros | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2% Thoriated | Red | DC Welding – General | Long life, stable arc | Slightly radioactive |
| 2% Ceriated | Gray | Low-Amp Stainless | Easy arc start, sharp point | Great for thin materials |
| 2% Lanthanated | Blue/Gold | All-Around Stainless Welding | Stable, versatile, non-radioactive | Great multi-purpose option |
| Pure Tungsten | Green | AC Aluminum Only | Good for AC cleaning action | Not suitable for stainless |
How to Choose the Right Tungsten for Your Stainless Job
Now that you know the main types, the next step is matching the right tungsten to your job. Here’s what I usually ask myself before picking:
How thick is the stainless steel?
Thinner metals do better with ceriated or lanthanated tungsten.
What amperage will I use?
For low-amp work (under 100 amps), go for ceriated. For higher amps, thoriated or lanthanated are solid.
Am I doing detailed or structural work?
If it’s precision work, like sanitary welding or exhaust systems, ceriated or lanthanated are ideal. If it’s thicker material or structural, thoriated works well too.
Do I want to avoid radioactive material?
Then skip thoriated and go with lanthanated or ceriated.
Tungsten Sizes for TIG Welding Stainless Steel
Choosing the right type is only half the battle. The size also matters. Here’s a general guide I go by:
| Tungsten Size | Amperage Range | Best Use |
|---|---|---|
| 1/16” (1.6mm) | 20 – 100 amps | Thin stainless, sheet metal |
| 3/32” (2.4mm) | 80 – 150 amps | General stainless work |
| 1/8” (3.2mm) | 130 – 250 amps | Thick stainless, structural welds |
For most of my stainless projects, 3/32” is my go-to. It’s versatile and works well with 16 to 12 gauge stainless.
How to Prepare Tungsten for Stainless Steel
You can have the right tungsten and still get a poor weld if your prep isn’t right. Stainless steel needs a clean, focused arc. That means you need a sharpened point on your tungsten.
Here’s what I do:
- Use a dedicated tungsten grinder or a fine sanding disc
- Grind along the length of the tungsten (not around it)
- Make the point about 2.5 times the diameter of the tungsten
- Keep the point centered and even
This helps create a tight, focused arc that won’t wander. You want that laser-like control when welding stainless.
AC or DC for Stainless Steel?
Just to be clear, when TIG welding stainless steel, you’ll want to use DCEN—that’s Direct Current Electrode Negative. It focuses the heat into the workpiece and gives you a clean, deep weld.
AC is for aluminum. If you’re using AC on stainless, it’s going to give you problems—shallow penetration and a wide, sloppy arc.
So make sure your machine is set right before striking that arc.
Common Problems When Using the Wrong Tungsten
If you’ve ever run into a weld that just didn’t look right, chances are your tungsten had something to do with it. Here are a few signs you’re using the wrong type or shape:
- Arc starts are erratic or hard to control
- Weld bead looks wide or dull
- Tungsten balls up at the tip
- Arc wanders while welding
- You get porosity or inconsistent penetration
Trust me, when you’re using the right tungsten and it’s prepped properly, you’ll feel the difference. The arc is tight, smooth, and clean.
Tips for Better TIG Welding on Stainless Steel
Let me share a few tips I’ve learned the hard way:
- Use a gas lens for better shielding gas coverage
- Keep your filler rod clean—wipe it before use
- Use the right torch angle—usually around 15 degrees
- Watch your heat input to avoid warping or discoloration
- Tack your pieces to hold everything in place before welding
These little things make a big difference, especially when welding stainless.
My Go-To Setup for Stainless TIG Welding
If you’re curious, here’s my typical setup when working on stainless:
- Tungsten: 2% Lanthanated, 3/32”
- Amperage: 70–110 amps depending on thickness
- Gas: 100% Argon at 15–20 CFH
- Torch: Water-cooled with a gas lens
- Filler rod: ER308L
It gives me a stable arc, clean welds, and consistent results. Try it and see how it works for you.
Conclusion
So now you know what tungsten to use for TIG welding stainless steel. It’s not just a small detail—it can make or break your weld.
If you want precision, clean finishes, and fewer headaches, go with 2% Lanthanated or Ceriated tungsten. Thoriated still has its place, but only if you handle it safely. And please, leave the pure tungsten for aluminum.
Prep is everything. Grind your tungsten right, match the size to your amperage, and stay steady with your hand.
TIG welding stainless can be a joy when everything comes together. And trust me, once you get it dialed in, your welds will speak for themselves.
Frequently Asked Questions
What tungsten is best for welding thin stainless steel?
2% Ceriated tungsten is excellent for thin stainless because it starts easily at low amperage and holds a sharp point.
Can I use thoriated tungsten for stainless steel?
Yes, you can. Thoriated tungsten is great for DC welding and provides a very stable arc. Just be cautious, as it’s slightly radioactive.
Is pure tungsten okay for stainless steel?
No, pure tungsten is meant for AC welding on aluminum. It doesn’t hold a sharp point well, which is critical for stainless TIG welding.
What size tungsten should I use for TIG welding stainless steel?
For most jobs, 3/32” (2.4mm) is a good all-purpose size. For thinner stainless, you can go with 1/16” (1.6mm).
Should I use AC or DC when TIG welding stainless steel?
Always use DCEN (Direct Current Electrode Negative) when welding stainless steel. AC is for aluminum.
Let me know if you’d like a printable chart or if you need help with your TIG setup. I’m always happy to help a fellow welder.
