I get asked this question a lot, especially by folks who are just getting into welding or even some who’ve been doing it for a while but want to deepen their understanding. Knowing the types of welding rods out there isn’t just about picking one up and striking an arc.
Each rod has its own strengths, weaknesses, and purpose. And if you’re anything like me, you want to get it right the first time—less waste, cleaner welds, and stronger bonds.
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If you’re sitting beside me right now and wondering what rod you should use for your next welding job, let’s go through it together. I’ve worked with a wide range of rods on all sorts of projects—from thick structural steel to thin sheet metal.
I’ll break them down in a simple, clear way so that anyone—from a beginner to a seasoned welder—can understand and make confident choices.
What Is a Welding Rod?
Before we jump into the types, let’s quickly talk about what a welding rod is. A welding rod is a filler material used during the welding process. It’s the part that melts and fuses with the base metals to form a strong joint.
Some rods are coated (we call these “electrodes”) and used in Shielded Metal Arc Welding (SMAW or stick welding). Others are bare wire used in TIG or MIG welding.
Each rod has a specific purpose, and using the wrong one can lead to weak welds or excessive spatter. That’s why it’s so important to know what you’re working with.
Classification of Welding Rods
Welding rods, especially stick welding electrodes, are usually classified by numbers—like 6010, 7018, and so on. These numbers aren’t random. They tell you important things like tensile strength, welding position, and the type of coating.
Here’s a quick breakdown of what those numbers mean:
| Electrode | Tensile Strength (PSI) | Welding Position | Coating & Current | Check Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6010 | 60,000 | All Positions | High cellulose, DC only | Amazon |
| 6011 | 60,000 | All Positions | High cellulose, AC/DC | Amazon |
| 6013 | 60,000 | All Positions | Rutile, AC/DC | Amazon |
| 7014 | 70,000 | All Positions | Iron powder, AC/DC | Amazon |
| 7018 | 70,000 | All Positions | Low hydrogen, AC/DC | Amazon |
| 7024 | 70,000 | Flat/Horizontal | High iron powder, AC/DC | Amazon |
Let’s go deeper into each of these rods and what they’re best used for.
6010 Welding Rod
Ah, the 6010. This one’s a beast. I’ve used it plenty of times when I needed deep penetration, especially on dirty or rusty steel. It burns hot and fast and cuts right through the grime.
The 6010 rod is known for its strong arc and quick-freezing slag. It’s perfect for pipe welding and vertical welds where penetration is key. But keep in mind—it only works with DC current. So, you’ll need a welder that can handle that.
It’s not the prettiest finish, but when you need strength and speed, 6010 gets the job done.
6011 Welding Rod
The 6011 is a very close cousin to the 6010, but here’s the beauty—it works with both AC and DC. That makes it super versatile. I’ve used it plenty of times on my old AC buzz box, and it works like a charm.
Like 6010, it provides deep penetration and works great on dirty or galvanized metal. It’s a go-to rod for farm repairs, trailers, and quick fixes. If you’ve only got one rod and need to cover a wide range of welding tasks, 6011 is a safe bet.
6013 Welding Rod
Now, if you want something that runs smoother and looks a bit neater, 6013 is where it’s at. This rod is easier to control and gives a softer arc. It’s perfect for sheet metal, small repairs, and situations where you want less spatter.
I’ve used 6013 for general fabrication and lighter projects. It doesn’t penetrate as deeply as 6010 or 6011, but the weld bead is cleaner and more manageable. Great for beginners too.
7014 Welding Rod
7014 is a bit of a hidden gem. It’s got iron powder in its coating, which means it lays down a heavy, strong weld. It’s great for horizontal and flat positions, especially when appearance matters.
It runs smooth and is forgiving. I like using it on clean metal where I need something strong but also good-looking. It also handles AC and DC current, which gives it even more flexibility.
7018 Welding Rod
If you ask any experienced welder what their favorite rod is, chances are they’ll say 7018. It’s the gold standard. I’ve used this rod for everything from heavy structural work to clean welds on equipment.
What makes 7018 special is its low-hydrogen coating. This reduces the risk of cracking, especially in thicker metals or critical welds. It’s also strong—with a tensile strength of 70,000 PSI—and works in all positions.
You have to keep it dry. 7018 rods absorb moisture easily, and that can ruin a weld. I store mine in a rod oven or a sealed container with desiccants. If you’re doing certified work, 7018 is likely the rod they’ll require.
7024 Welding Rod
Now let’s talk about speed. 7024 is your high-deposition rod. It’s packed with iron powder and lays down a massive weld bead fast. It’s ideal for flat and horizontal positions.
This rod is great when you’ve got long seams or thick material and want to save time. I’ve used it on heavy plates and big weldments where you want strength without sacrificing speed.
It’s not for vertical work. Keep it to flat or horizontal positions only.
Specialty Welding Rods
Besides the common rods, there are specialty electrodes for stainless steel, cast iron, hard surfacing, and more. Here are some examples I’ve personally worked with:
Stainless Steel Rods (e.g., 308L, 309L)
These rods are used when welding stainless steel to stainless or even to mild steel. They resist corrosion and create a strong bond.
Cast Iron Rods (e.g., Nickel 99, Nickel 55)
Welding cast iron can be tricky, but these rods help. I always preheat and cool down slowly to avoid cracking when working with cast iron.
Hardfacing Rods
If you want to build up wear-resistant surfaces—think bulldozer blades or agricultural equipment—hardfacing rods are the way to go. They extend the life of components exposed to abrasion.
How to Choose the Right Welding Rod
This is the part where experience really helps, but even if you’re new, you can make the right choice by asking a few simple questions:
- What metal are you welding? Mild steel, stainless, cast iron?
- How thick is the metal? Thicker materials may need deeper penetration rods.
- What position are you welding in? Flat, horizontal, vertical, overhead?
- What type of welding machine do you have? AC or DC?
- Do you need a strong finish or is it more about appearance?
By matching your rod to the job, you’ll get better results and fewer headaches.
Storage and Handling Tips for Welding Rods
Don’t overlook this part—it really matters. Especially with rods like 7018 that are sensitive to moisture.
- Always keep rods in a dry, sealed container.
- Use rod ovens for low-hydrogen rods like 7018.
- Avoid handling rods with oily or wet gloves.
- Rotate your stock so old rods don’t sit unused too long.
A well-stored rod can make a huge difference in your weld quality.
Mistakes When Using Welding Rods
I’ve seen it (and done it) all—so here’s what to watch for:
- Using the wrong polarity: Some rods like 6010 are DC only.
- Poor fit-up: If the joint isn’t prepped properly, even the best rod can’t save the weld.
- Welding too cold or too hot: This can lead to poor penetration or burn-through.
- Not cleaning the base metal: Dirt and rust can kill your arc and weaken the weld.
The rod is just one piece of the puzzle, but using it right is critical.
Summary Table of Common Welding Rods
| Welding Rod | Tensile Strength | Current | Best Use Case | Position |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6010 | 60,000 PSI | DC | Pipe, deep penetration | All |
| 6011 | 60,000 PSI | AC/DC | General repairs | All |
| 6013 | 60,000 PSI | AC/DC | Light fabrication | All |
| 7014 | 70,000 PSI | AC/DC | Structural welds | All |
| 7018 | 70,000 PSI | AC/DC | Structural, pressure vessels | All |
| 7024 | 70,000 PSI | AC/DC | High-speed flat welds | Flat/Horizontal |
Conclusion
So, now you know the different types of welding rods and what they’re best used for. Trust me, once you start using the right rod for the right job, everything gets smoother.
Your welds are stronger, cleaner, and more efficient. And honestly, it just makes the work a whole lot more satisfying.
Welding isn’t just about melting metal—it’s about understanding your tools and materials. If you’re doing heavy-duty structural work or delicate sheet metal repairs, there’s a rod made for that job.
FAQs
What is the most commonly used welding rod?
The 7018 is one of the most commonly used welding rods, especially in structural welding, due to its strength and versatility.
Can I use 6011 instead of 6010?
Yes, if your machine only supports AC, 6011 is a great alternative to 6010, which is DC-only.
Which welding rod is best for beginners?
6013 is often recommended for beginners because it’s easy to use and provides a smoother arc with less spatter.
What’s the difference between 7018 and 6010?
7018 provides a cleaner, low-hydrogen weld suitable for structural jobs, while 6010 offers deeper penetration and is better for dirty or rusty metal.
Do welding rods expire?
They don’t have an exact expiration date, but rods like 7018 can absorb moisture and lose effectiveness if not stored properly.
Can I weld stainless steel with regular rods?
Not really. You’ll need specialty stainless rods like 308L for proper bonding and corrosion resistance.
